Spring 2017 AT hike, day #15

Saturday, May 27, 2017
Start: Justus Creek
End: Springer Mountain
Miles: 14.4 (+0.2 for Long Creek Falls, +0.9 for return to USFS 42)

I went to bed really early last night, around 8pm, and slept soundly until I got up at 6am. I packed up camp and was on trail by 7am.

I climbed from Justus Creek (2589') up Justus Mountain (3219'), down to Cooper Gap (2929'), up Sassafras Mountain (3347'), down to Horse Gap (2681'), up to Hawk Mountain (3220'), and then down to Three Forks/USFS 58 (2530'). From there, I climbed up to Springer Mountain (3782'), arriving by 1pm. I hung out for a while at the summit before heading back to the parking lot to await my ride to Atlanta.

Today went by quickly; it was mostly overcast and humid, with occasional sun peeking through. There were a LOT of people out on the trail, since it's a holiday weekend. I saw two people open carrying, one of whom had his gun shoved into his butt crack without a holster. Beyond it being anxiety producing, it looked like chafe city. The summit of Springer was a bit anticlimactic, with poor views and a lot of other people. The last 5 miles were mostly wide gravel trail. It was quite a strange way to finish up this hike!

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #14

Friday, May 26, 2017
Start: Neel Gap/US 19/Mountain Crossings hostel
End: Justus Creek
Miles: 17.0

I went to bed pretty early last night since I was so tired. I was up by 6:30am and on trail by 7:30am. I focused on relaxing and taking my time today, taking plenty of breaks. I started out by climbing from the Gap (3125') up to Blood Mountain (4457'), which is the highest point in Georgia. I've been told it was a good thing I was climbing it today, as it will be very busy the rest of this holiday weekend. From there, I descended to Lance Creek (2865'), passing by Gaddis Mountain (3402') on the way. I then climbed Big Cedar Mountain (3737') and Preaching Rock (3593') and descended to Woody Gap (3198'). I passed by Ramrock Mountain (3222'), Gooch Gap (2824'), Gooch Mountain shelter (2789'), and then down to Justus Creek (2589'). I arrived around 3:30pm.

I debated where I should tent for quite a while, as I filtered my evening's water. In the end, I decided to be a bad kid and not camp at one of the "designated campsites." The campground area is 7 tent pads all right next to each other with maybe 6 feet between tents, the tent pads are on a hill and all slant, and with no privacy whatsoever. I had made the decision that I wanted peace and quiet for my night tonight, so I camped by the creek at one of the many, many spots people have used before me. It follows Leave No Trace in most regards - I might be a hair too close to the water but I'm not concerned. I'm going to try sleeping the night without my tent's rainfly. It's supposed to be a glorious night and I rarely get that opportunity. So we shall see how it goes. I was done with dinner and all packed in for bed by 6pm, so it's going to be an early night.

I have 14.4 miles left for this hike and expect to be at Springer by 3pm. I'm excited about tomorrow in many ways - I'm ready to go home to New England; I'm ready to see my partner and friends again; and I'm ready to see Springer (and I rather expect it'll be anti-climactic, rather like Clingmans Dome).

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #13

Thursday, May 25, 2017
Start: GA 75/Unicoi Gap
End: Neel Gap/US 19/Mountain Crossings hostel
Miles: 21.2

I stayed the night at the Top of Georgia hostel again and was back on trail by 8:30am. I climbed from Unicoi Gap (2949') up to Blue Mountain (4025'), then descended to Red Clay Gap (3485'). I went past Low Gap Shelter (3024') and climbed up to Sheep Rock Top (3558'), then descended to ~3100' and climbed up Poor Mountain (3620'). I passed by Wildcat Mountain (3637'), descended to Tesnatee Gap (3138'), and then climbed to Cowrock Mountain (3842'), Wolf Laurel Top (3780'), and Levelland Mountain (3870').

I arrived at Neel Gap (3125') at 4:30pm, meaning I averaged ~2.7 MPH (average speedy hiking is 2 MPH). I arrived in time to get some dinner from the outfitter while checking in at their hostel.

People described this hostel as a "basement dungeon," and I must agree. There are at least 12 other people here at the hostel (and they're the louder, slower, and less prepared hikers), and the hostel is clearly an after thought for the folks who run the outfitter upstairs. The water runs and there's a shower, though the drain of the shower backs up.

Tomorrow is my last night on trail; I'll arrive at Springer on Saturday afternoon!

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #12

Wednesday, May 24, 2017
Start: Unicoi Gap
End: Dicks Creek Gap/Top of Georgia hostel
Miles: 16.7

I got a nice night of sleep, waking up around 6:45am. I enjoyed a delicious meal of all I could eat cold cereal (I bought non-dairy milk in town yesterday). The shuttle left at 8am and I was dropped off at Unicoi Gap (2949') by 8:45am to hike back to the hostel.

I climbed up Rocky Mountain (4017'), descended to Indian Grave Gap (3113'), up Trey Mountain (4430'), down to Wolfpen Gap (3550') and Steeltrap Gap (3448'), up to Young Lick Knob (3748'), past Addis Gap (3304'), and then up Kelly Knob (4126'). From there, I descended to Deep Gap (3554'), climbed Powell Mountain (3850'), descended to Moreland Gap (3015') and then Dicks Creek Gap (2675'). I arrived at the gap by 2:15pm and then walked the 0.5mi to the hostel.

It lightly rained off and on for most of the morning, with most rain stopping by noonish. I even saw the sun in the afternoon! It's been a nicely relaxing day. I only have ~50 miles left. I'll do ~20 miles tomorrow and then have two days to do 30 miles. It's also set to have decent weather between tomorrow and Saturday. I'm 93% done with the AT as of today!

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #11

Tuesday, May 23, 2017
Start: Standing Indian Shelter
End: Dicks Gap/Top of Georgia hostel
Miles: 16.7

I woke up this morning around 5:45am due to the rude section hiker who got up, using his cell phone flashlight to take his pack down and start cooking. He made no effort to avoid shining the light in everyone's eyes. I got up earlier than I wanted and was on trail by 7am.

From the shelter (4742'), I descended to Deep Gap (4341') and then climbed to ~4800'. I descended to Wateroak Gap (4490'), stopped in for a quick stop at Muskrat Creek Shelter (4562'), descended to Sassafras Gap (4300'), and climbed to Couthouse Bald (4708'). From the bald, I passed by the NC-GA state line, and then descended to Blue Ridge Gap (3090'), climbed to As Knob (3144'), passed by Plumorchard Gap Shelter (3144'), climbed up to Buzzard Knob (3679'), and then descended to Cowart Gap (2900'). From there, I climbed to ~3300' and then descended to Dicks Creek Gap (2675'). I arrived at the gap by 1:45pm.

When I arrived at the gap, a shuttle for the Top of Georgia hostel was in the parking area. They took me to the hostel and greeted me with the choice of free beverage. The folks who run the hostel are nice people, which is saying something given that they've dealt with 10,000 hikers over the past 3 years. The young puppies here don't appreciate what they have in this hostel. They chafe under the basic hostel rules and complain about it constantly.

The pouring rain all day today provided ample encouragement to keep moving. It's supposed to rain all day tomorrow too, but at least it'll be a slack packing day. With all I can eat cereal in the morning too!

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #10

Monday, May 22, 2017
Start: Rock Gap
End: Standing Indian Shelter
Miles: 19.8

This morning, I was up at 6:45am, since I'd arranged for a 7:30am shuttle. The hostel owner, Zen/Collin, wasn't ready until around 7:45-8am. He needed coffee so we stopped at a local coffee shop and I got some medium roast coffee with soy milk to start my day. Me and Collin had some great conversations on the way to the trail, talking about politics and different shitty/scary hostels along the trail. We were at Rock Gap (3732') by 8:30am and I hit the trail.

I climbed past Rock Gap Shelter (3772') and Long Branch Shelter (4479') on my way up to Albert Mountain (5250') and the fire tower there. This was my 2,000 mile marker - I've officially hiked 2000 miles of the AT!

From Albert Mountain, I headed down to Betty Creek Gap (4300'), back up to 4921', and stopped at Carter Gal Shelter (4528') for water. I met a NOBO thru hiker from Washington state, and we had good conversations about the current political climate and what it's been like to hike in a much more conservative area than where we live. She was super nice and I gave her some heads up about various hostels where I didn't feel safe. It was a pleasant surprise to have such a nice chat while filtering water.

From the shelter, I descended to Coleman Gap (4221') and then climbed to the top of Standing Indian Mountain (5435'). I arrived at the Standing Indian Shelter (4742') at 4:30pm.

I must have my trail legs because I averaged 2.5 MPH over the course of the day. I was encouraged to hoof it hard for the last 3 or 4 miles due to the number of people I was passing, including a large group of high school seniors. I wanted a spot in the shelter. I got the last space in the shelter that comfortable fits 6; in a dire situation, we could fit maybe 8 horizontal bodies. We've seen one bold mouse running around the shelter area; it sucks at climbing walls - we've watched it try to poorly climb walls and fall. The mouse even barn-door'd (climbing term). The large group of high school seniors ended up tenting here at the shelter and are loudly talking while eating food. I'm bad - I didn't hang a bear bag tonight: it's going to rain, they're waterproof airtight bags, and the kids are making a mess of their food... if there are any bears, they will go for the kids. Or the trash pile by the privy. This privy is hands down the nastiest privy I've seen so far; even the stinky one in the backwoods of Maine.

I was able to get a few bars of Verizon service and called ahead to the Top of Georgia hostel to reserve a bunk for tomorrow and Wednesday nights. I've heard nothing but good things about this hostel and I'm looking forward to it. It'll be a light day miles-wise tomorrow, which is good because it might be raining. I could hear thunder off and on all day, though it rained only a tiny bit today.

Overall, it was a good day. My IT band was well controlled by the strap for most of the day, though towards the end of the day it started hurting a decent bit. I'm currently addressing it by taking NSAIDs, using the brace, and using the rx pain cream twice a day. It only has to make it to Sunday!

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #9

Sunday, May 21, 2017
Start: Tellico Gap
End: Rock Gap
Miles: 23.1

I was up this morning at 6:10am and ready to leave by 7am. Unfortunately, due to some confusion around shuttling this morning, I didn't get to Tellico Gap until around 8:45am. It started raining last night and then poured rain until around 2pm today. Despite the rain, I managed to make some quick miles.

I started at Tellico Gap (3850') and climbed to Rocky Bald (5030') and Copper Ridge Bald (5080'). I then descended to Burningtown Gap (4236'), hiked up to Wayah Bald (5342'), down to Wayah Gap (4180'), up to Siler Bald (5001'), and then down to Winding Stair Gap (3690'). Since I got there at 3:30-ish, I decided to push onward to the next gap. I climbed up to ~4400 and then descended to Rock Gap (3732').

I got to the gap by 4:45pm. Unfortunately, there was intermittent horrible cell service. I did manage to get out a text to the hostel owner around 5:15pm, asking if he was available for a shuttle. I tried to hitch for 1.25 hours before someone stopped for me. Just as we started to pull away, the hostel owner showed up so I jumped out. His dogs were with him and he has taken them out for a walk. Perhaps I should have taken the hitch... in any case, I do have a ride back to town.

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #8

Saturday, May 20, 2017
Start: Sassafras Gap Shelter
End: Tellico Gap
Miles: 14.8

It rained a bit during the night so I packed up a wet tent in the morning. I didn't sleep very well and woke up in a grumpy mood. At least the bugs weren't as evil in the morning. I was up at 6am and on trail by 7am. It quickly got hot and humid.

From the shelter (4391'), I climbed to Swim Bald (4710') and then descended to US 19/74 and Nantahala Outdoor Center (1732'). I ended up going to the outfitter and the general store there and hanging out for a while (fine, it was over an hour!). Turns out, they have a special IT band strap, which is magic. It cut my pain by at least 60%. It allowed me to walk normally again. I had the full use of both my legs again; my body and soul rejoiced. They also loved the three cold drinks, egg sandwich, and assorted other snacks we ate.

From the NOC, I bounded up the never ending mountain. I went past the Jumpoff (3940') and then summited Wesser Bald (4627'), climbing to the top of the observational tower. I hung out there for maybe half an hour, calling hostels to figure out a way to get me more contact lense eye drops, as I'd run out this morning. After figuring it out, I descended to Tellico Gap (3850'), arriving by 3:45, where my shuttle picked me up and took me to Franklin.

I deeply enjoyed showering, getting groceries, eating in town, and running my laundry. Tomorrow, I have a 7am shuttle back to Tellico Gap, where I'll hike back towards Franklin. If I must hike in the rain, slack packing is the way to do it.

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #7

Friday, May 19, 2017
Start: Fontana Dam shelter
End: Sassafras Gap Shelter
Miles: 21.9

Today I woke up around 6:10am and headed out by 6:55am.

I climbed from the shelter (1853') up to ~3800' and then descended down to Cable Gap Shelter (2878'). I climbed up to Brushnell knob (3928'), past Brown Fork Gap Shelter (3813'), up to ~4000, and then down to Stecoah Gap (3165') (my original destination). I then climbed up to Cheoah Bald (5062'), and then down to Sassafras Gap Shelter (4391').

My IT band started giving me a lot of trouble today. I spent most of the day keeping my right leg as straight as possible, with lots of immediate feedback about my technique. It was also hot and humid, making it very hard to keep up with water needs of the body.

I arrived at Sassafras Gap Shelter around 6:45pm. I was going to stay in the shelter but there are four men there already and the bugs are awful. I set up my tent and didn't open the door until bugs had settled down a bit. I ate dinner and got myself settled by around 8:45pm. Tomorrow will be a lighter day in terms of miles, which I appreciate.

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #6

Thursday, May 18, 2017
Start: Derrick Knob shelter
End: Fontana Dam shelter
Miles: 23.9

I woke up at 6:10am and left the shelter this morning at 7am.

From the shelter (4882'), I climbed over Thunderhead Mountain (5527'), past Rocky Top (5440') and Spence Field shelter (4916'), and then down to Russell Field Shelter (4348'). I descended to Big Abrams Gap (4115'), climbed to Mollies Ridge shelter (4586'), descended to Ekaneetlee Gap (3842'), climbed Doe Knob (4520'), and then started the long descent out of the Smokeys.

I arrived at Fontana Dam shelter (1853') at 5:30pm. I walked past the visitors center (1700') around 5pm and they weren't open, though the guide said they should be, and the soda machine was out of order. The Fontana Hilton is quite nice. There's a formal bathroom and shower with running water. The shelter is nice though I decided to tent. I was also totally bummed to find all four hostels at where I wanted to stop tomorrow evening are full up and don't have space. Unfortunately, that will mean rearranging my miles for the next few days. And the weather forecast isn't so great - rain every day for the next 6-7 days. *Sigh* We shall see how much suffering is involved.

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #5

Wednesday, May 17, 2017
Start: Newfound Gap/Gatlinburg
End: Derrick Knob shelter
Miles: 17.8

After a nice evening in town, I got to bed around 10pm. I was up this morning at 6am and my shuttle picked me up at 7am. I was on trail by 7:30am.

From Newfound Gap (5045'), I climbed past Mt Collins (6187'), descended to Collins Gap (5750'), and then up to Clingmans Dome and observation tower (6667') which is the highest point on the AT. I passed by Mt Buckley (6590'), down past Double Spring gap shelter (5510'), and over Silers Bald (5607'). From there, I went down to Buckeye Gap (4817'), up to Cold Spring Knob (5203'), and then descended to the shelter (4882').

I arrived at 4pm and settled in; there were already two people there, one of them a ridge runner (Morgan from Nashville). A group of 4 section hikers came in around 5pm and 4 thru hikers (B squared, Magic Mike, Bushman) arrived around 6:45pm. Looks like the shelter will be fairly full tonight. Here's to hoping things will be quiet-ish tonight; I bought some earplugs in town. Tomorrow I have a long day planned to get down to Fontana Dam Shelter.

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #4

Tuesday, May 16, 2017
Start: Tri-Corner Shelter
End: Newfound Gap/Gatlinburg, TH
Miles: 15.1 (+~3 miles in town)

Surprisingly, I got a mostly decent night's sleep. People settled down by ~8:45pm. I was up by 6:10am, and on trail by 7am.

I climbed up Mt Chapman (6216'), dipped down to ~5800', skirted the summit of Mt Sequoyah (5945'), and descended to Copper Gap (5514'). I then climbed to Eagle Rocks (5834'), went by Bradleys View (5476'), descended to Porters Gap (5364'), passed by Charlies Bunion (5522'), and stopped for a quick break at Icewater Spring Shelter (5935'). I climbed to Mt Kephart (6036'), and then descended to Newfound Gap/US 441 (5045').

I arrived at ~2pm. It took me another 45 minutes to catch a hitch down to Gatlinburg, despite the constant stream of tourists. Finally, a lovely family (grandparents and grandson and his girlfriend) in a pickup truck came by specifically to be kind and take me to town.

Once I got to town, I had to do some searching to locate a place to do laundry, as no motels here it. I managed to find a long term motel/room rental place right near the motel I'm staying at that will let me use their laundry. I did my resupply shopping close to the motel, rather than try to get to the actual grocery store outside of town. I paid more, by a long shot, but it was less stressful. I located a number of shuttle/taxi services, though few offered what I need, and arranged for a shuttle back to the trail tomorrow morning. I'm currently enjoying the ministrations of Mellow Mushroom's vegan Thai Dye... sooo good it will be breakfast too!

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #3

Monday, May 15, 2017
Start: Stateline Branch 
End: Tri-Corner Knob Shelter
Miles: 16.8

I had a great night sleep in my tent, waking up at 6:30am feeling good. I packed up and headed out by 7:30am.

I climbed slow and steady from Stateline Branch (1698') up to the GSMNP boundary (1975') and then past Davenport Gap Shelter (2591'). From there, I kept climbing, up to Mt Cammerer (4950'), and then descended to Low Gap (4242'), climbed past Cosby Knob shelter (4766'), up to maybe 5200', and down to Camel Gap (4674'). I climbed past Yellow Creek Gap (5902') and Deer Creek Gap (6054'), up to Guyot Spring (6302'), and then headed down to Tri-Corner Knob shelter. I got there by 4:45pm.

At the very start of my hike this morning, I had a massive nosebleed. I got it under control but my handkerchief took a hit. I rinsed it out mid morning and hung it on the back of my pack and it was dry by lunchtime.

So tonight has been less than optimal. The shelter is full up with thru hikers. So many of them are loud, obnoxious, and won't stop talking. It's 8:30pm and people are still arriving. There were very few camp sites and they were taken early, with the assumption the shelter would fill up (which it did). I doubt I'll sleep well tonight. *sigh* It might be satisfying to wake people up tomorrow morning... but we'll see. I have a light day tomorrow that will get me into Gatlinburg, where they have a Mellow Mushroom!!

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #2

Sunday, May 14, 2017
Start: Roaring Fork Shelter
End: Stateline branch
Miles: 16.8

I was up this morning at 6:15am after a less than restful sleep. The rodents in the shelter were quite active for most of the night, chewing on anything and everything. I spent much of the night tossing and turning, hoping they weren't eating my bag (even though all my food/ smellables were hanging from the bear cables anyway). Also turns out Parkour giggles in his sleep. It was a bit chilly this morning so I got a slower start than usual. I got my stuff together and headed out by 7:30am.

I climbed from the shelter (4019') up to Max Patch (4629') for 360 degree views (there was also call service!). From there I descended to Brown Gap (3500'), up to 3853', then down to Deep Gap (2911'). I then climbed up to Snowbird Mountain (4263'), where there was some lovely trail magic with cold drinks, cake, sandwiches, banana pudding, resupply snacks, and some personal item resupply. And chairs! I hung out there for probably half an hour, enjoying the food and chatting with people. I met Popsicle, who is a section hiker and a Smithie who graduated in 1996; she's currently traveling all around the world adventuring on her savings.

From there, I descended all the way to Green Corner Rd (1788'), which Sitting Bear hostel is located 0.2mi off the trail. I hiked to the hostel around 3:45, recharged my devices, had some snacks, bought a camp dinner, reapplied my KT tape, and headed back out by 5pm. While Standing Bear isn't quite 4 Pines in VA, it's perhaps best compared to Uncle Johnny's in TN. It's dirty, full of bugs, and everyone is drinking beer and smoking everywhere (both cigarettes and pot). It was full of people looking to get shuttles to Trail Days in Damascus.

I pushed on, descending under I-40 and going over Pigeon River Bridge (1373'), and then climbed up to Stateline Branch (1698'), setting up camp by the creek at the last campsite between here and the start of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in 1.1 miles. Despite there being space here for at least 6 tents, no one else is here as of yet. The creak is lovely white noise (which is good because I can vaguely hear the highway) and considering where it is, the bugs are light. I did an extra 1.6 miles today, which is that many less I have to do tomorrow. Tomorrow is going to be perpetual climbing, going from 1698' up to 4950' within ~6 miles.

Spring 2017 AT hike, day #1

Saturday May 13, 2017
Start: Hot Springs, NC
End: Roaring Brook Shelter
Miles: 17.9

Last night, my connecting flight to Asheville was delayed by more than an hour with mechanical trouble. I didn't arrive at the hostel until 10pm. I walked into to a completely quiet house, with a note on the door saying "full." I noted my name was on their calendar though no location or room number was noted. I quietly poked around, going upstairs. I found an open door with a bed made with no one staying in it. I decided it was probably mine so I got settled and went to sleep. I got up this morning around 6:15am, did my morning routine, and was downstairs by 6:45am. No one else was up. I found my package on the front porch and integrated it into my pack. I left money and a note on the desk and headed to the diner. I grabbed a veggie breakfast wrap with some sweet tea, hitting the trail by 7:30am.

Leaving from Hot Springs (1326'), I climbed up to Deer Park Mountain (2571'), and then eventually climbed up Bluff Mountain (4686'). From there, I descended to Kale Gap (3700') and then climbed up Walnut Mountain (4293'). The trail then went down to (3455'), and then climbed up to get to Roaring Fork Shelter (4019). I arrived right at 4pm.

While I could have kept going, I have a light day tomorrow already anyway. The next place to camp out is Max Patch which is a bald mountain around 4600'; it's accessible by road, it's Saturday night, and I saw a group of 6+ locals headed to camp out on Max Patch with their carful of beer. It sounds cold and rather crowded. I'd rather pass through first thing in the morning, as the new light hits it (and after it has time to dry out from days of rain).

It didn't really rain today but it was extremely foggy and humid and the trees were enthusiastically dripping alllll day. Water has been, of course, plentiful, which is a nice comparison to the last trip. Loon and Parcour are sharing the shelter with me; I'm delighted to find some quiet, given how many people I've seen today. Loon is from Minneapolis and just got her PhD on Sunday from Auburn in Alabama in animal nutrition, specializing in poultry nutrition. We had lovely chats about the Minneapolis' theater scene, academia, and the struggles of being in more conservative spaces.